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BACK ROADS BILL: Snowshoeing, heritage activity in a modern context

This week, Bill invites us to go snowshoeing with a primer on a truly winter heritage activity

Even though this week was a bit milder, there’s still lots of snow and winter remaining, so let’s go snowshoeing.

To a new Canadian or an alien from another galaxy, it might appear strange that we enjoy ambling along over the snow in a manner somewhere between the gait of a duck and a penguin.

You can go just about anywhere with your snowshoes, and this story underlines the diversity of place and accessibility on the back roads.

Back in the day, it was called tramp or hike on snowshoes.

Snowshoes offer a unique perspective on a beautiful season.

Almost truly a Canadian activity, snowshoeing is a magical way to get outside and explore the winter landscape.

Heritage matters

Cliff Moulder lives near Balsam Creek (find that place on Google Earth). He may be one of the last great outdoorsmen. He has been on History Channel and other outdoor life television shows (along with Back Roads Bill).

By his own volition, he has been a fancier of snowshoes for a long time. He does, however, suffer from nostalgia syndrome. He likes to use vintage equipment.

He is the author of a new pictorial coffee-table book, Forgotten Icon, soon to be released, based on his extensive collection of snowshoes.

When asked if he likes the hi-tech snowshoe? “Of course not, but then remember my affliction! I originally viewed the modern snowshoe as a blatant excuse to ignore ten thousand years of evolution, but this idea mellowed when I became a snowshoe student.”

He said the new models are user-friendly, with no special footwear needed. Low maintenance is another feature: “Rodents ignore them” in storage, and “anything that can withstand a rental season has to have something going for it.”

He explained that the hi-tech snowshoes of today have a “modified swallow tail shape with the tail lopped off so they can fit into the trunk of a car.” Without the tail, he calls them snow draggers because they drag an enormous amount of snow. In deep snow, they create divots and can be a real encumbrance to anyone following. The tail, like the keel on the bottom of a canoe, helps the snowshoe to track better or straight. Cliff likens these to elephant tracks. 

“These new snowshoes are usually too small for any serious back country enthusiast. Elephants are rather ungainly in deep snow – all the more reason for marketers to sell the unsuspecting pachyderm a pair of overpriced ski poles so they won’t fall over,” he said. “Most people are using them on packed trails anyway.”

At the same time, he said, “You have to love ‘em though as they have put thousands of people outside in winter, something that would not have happened with traditional shoes.” He wishes he had developed the new hi-tech snowshoes. “I would be rich enough to collect iconic, museum works or art like the vintage snowshoes in the Bata Shoe Museum or the Canadian Museum of History.”

Historically, he cited the following.

“The germ or idea for footwear that would enhance travel on snow originated in Asia and spread west into northern Europe where skis were developed and east across Siberia into North America to become snowshoes. Over the millennia, the snowshoe has evolved and so the modern shoes can be considered the present day phase in that process.”

Believe it; horses have been trained to wear snowshoes.

“Explorer Robert Scott’s fatal journey and race to the South Pole may have ended differently had he taken the snowshoes for his ponies. Instead, he left the snowshoes behind, and the ponies floundered.”

Ash is often thought to be the tree species of choice for the frame, but “white birch was the only choice for many builders.” Caribou makes the best “babiche” for netting snowshoes, “eel skin may be better.” The term “cat gut” often applied to the netting is “a problematic term, I strongly doubt its validity.”

You see a good many traditional snowshoes in antique shops and roadside yard sales.

“Most of these were made in Lorettevile, P.Q., by descendants of the Huron; today, the company is called Faber.” Visit the website to see the modern, hybrid and traditional models. Also, find good video footage on the front page.

The most famous pair of snowshoes and Cliff has seen them, “are in the RCMP museum in Regina, the pair owned by the infamous Albert Johnson, ‘The Mad Trapper’.”

A couple of tips then: “There is no need to walk with a wide stance if you have chosen the correct size of snowshoe and know how to use them. Short shoes are more tiresome to wear than longer shoes, and their professed advantage in dense brush is minimal. The real advantage can be in hill climbing if they are properly used. The bear paw label is an overused term - originally reserved for temporary snowshoes, often for children.”

And a warning: “most snowshoe harnesses are veritable death traps if one falls through the ice.”

“Modern snowshoes are adhered to your feet, the traditional ones are endeared to your souls.”

And Cliff is a long-time mentor of Back Roads Bill, he helped hone a skillset needed for back roads’ adventures.

Retail trends

Aaron Busch is the six-year co-owner/general manager (with brother Andrew) of Lefebvre's Source for Adventure, one of the longest-running retailers in northern Ontario, for more than 100 years, located in North Bay.

He said, “Packed trails and beyond. Snowshoeing is a great way to get out and enjoy nature at your own pace. From a fitness perspective, snowshoeing does it all: cardio, strength, agility, balance and endurance. With the right snowshoes paired with trekking poles, there’s no limit to the adventure ahead.”

Snowshoe sales are at a standstill. Aaron said, “I think anyone that wanted some either already had them or got them during COVID. We aren't seeing a whole lot of traffic for snowshoes. Those that are buying are doing so for on-trail outings.”

A good tip from the back roads is to take the boots you are going to wear to the store to size up and to see about the release/choice of the harnesses. (For these reasons, it is not recommended to purchase online.)

But in general, remember: The deeper the snow and the heavier your load, the larger the shoe you’ll need to stay on top of the snow.

Yes, to the poles – these improve balance and stability, especially when going uphill or downhill and checking snow depth or for slush – there’s a lot this year on the lakes. And one more thing: the bigger the ski pole basket, the better. Poles should be at right angles at your waist. They also provide the added benefit of an additional upper body workout.

Where to Go?

Ontario has over 330 provincial parks - there are 15 operating provincial parks in northeastern Ontario alone. Although they are mostly closed in the winter, they can be accessed for snowshoeing using their three-season trails. Samuel de Champlain is a good example of this, as the main road is plowed to the Canadian Ecology Centre.

Another example is from the Hwy. 11 entrance of Marten River Provincial Park snowshoe to the 3.5 km Old Growth Trail and give one of the largest white pine trees in the province a hug.

Then there are a multitude of conservation reserves (non-operating) everywhere. Conservation reserves are areas of public land that are protected to preserve natural and cultural heritage.

Then there are four (Thunder Bay, North Bay, Timmins, Sudbury regions) of the 31 Conservation Authorities (CA) in

Check out this link to find a conservation area with trails. Check out High Falls and Archie’s Rock (Mattagami Region CA) and the Eau Claire Gorge (North Bay-Mattawa CA).

You can find an abundance of Crown land – where you can go back country snowshoeing - using this online tool. It is easy: click on the layers.

Or with your map (digital) and compass, take a beeline in from a road to a small pond or wetland. You’ll be surprised they’re not vacant. On the edges, you will see a multitude of animal tracks to identify.

For fun, follow a meandering deer trail. They tend to walk into the wind, a preferred direction you will find where they browse and yard up. Look for their circular sleeping pattern.

The communities

The good news in the north is that most communities have long-standing cross-country ski clubs. Over time, they have diversified, developing networks of snowshoe trails and fat tire biking. These trail distances are for snowshoeing, complementing the other trails the clubs have for winter pursuits.

There was a reach out to each one for more details. For contact, put the club’s name into your browser and call for details regarding conditions, rentals and their clubhouse hours.

See the map for the multitude of locations.

Walden Cross Country has had “happy trails” since 1978. They have about 20 km of trails, and they have rentals and are located at the SW side of the City of Greater Sudbury. Sarah Pilbacka, Operations Manager, provided a description.

“Explore the beautiful snowshoe trails at Walden Cross Country. With routes ranging from 3 km easy loops to challenging 8 km adventures, featuring scenic lookouts along the way. A portion of our system is groomed for smooth trekking, making it accessible for all skill levels.”

Capreol Cross Country Ski Club - It has a Facebook page. Look for the Brown trail for snowshoeing, which is located in the northeast part of the city.

Onaping Nordics Ski Club (north part of Sudbury) The club is within Windy Lake Provincial Park and has snowshoe memberships. Day passes are available at the nearby Windy Lake Motel.

BioSki Cross-Country Ski & Snowshoe Club (City of Greater Sudbury) The BioSki trails come under the umbrella of a larger body, the South Shore Rim trail system that includes

Laurentian University and the Laurentian Nordic Ski Club. There are approximately 8 km of trails dedicated solely to snowshoeing with cut-offs for those who prefer a shorter distance. The trails may be accessed either from the ski cottage or from Moonlight Beach Road. The two highest points on the trail afford scenic views; one to the north over Lake Ramsey and the other (known by snowshoers as "Mount Ramsey") overlooks the entire area.

Englehart Nordic Ski Club has a Facebook page, and the snowshoe trails are located within Kap-Kig-Iwan Provincial Park. The name Kap-Kig-Iwan is said to come from the Ojibwe phrase “water running over the edge.” Go snowshoe to see High Falls!

Kirkland Lake Cross Country Ski Runners Club This club has a Facebook page, Kim Klockars, Director of Community Services for the town replied.

They have 8.87 km of snowshoe trails and 9.65 km of cross-country ski trails. “Discover the joy of snowshoeing at the Joe Mavrinac Community Complex! Located right behind the complex, our 6 trails cover 8.87 km of picturesque paths. With free access and snowshoe rentals available inside, it's the perfect way to enjoy the Winter months - all run by dedicated volunteers.”

Iroquois Falls Cross Country Ski Club was established in 1973. The ski chalet is located at the end of Cemetery Road on the west side of Hwy 11 at Porquis Junction.

Porcupine Ski Racers (Timmins)

Since its founding in 1973, Porcupine Ski Runners has grown into one of the largest Nordic ski clubs in Canada. It has about 10 km of snowshoe trails.

Cochrane Cross Country Ski Club

This club has been in operation since 1974. There is about 8 km of trails. There is .pdf map and a Facebook page under the same name.

Mattagami Cross Country Ski Club (Smooth Rock Falls) It was established in 1980 and truly has a stunning chalet. André Bernier is a volunteer committee member.

He said there are 4.3 km of snowshoe trails he developed with his wife about 15 years ago.

“The boreal forest makes for a beautiful setting. The trail meanders out Mattagami ski club camp on the side of the river.” The Chenouk trail of 2.3 km is named after their dog, who walked and accompanied us throughout the trail development. With an invitation to Back Roads Bill.

“I hope we get to snowshoe in there together one day,” It would be a pleasure.

Manitoulin Nordic Ski Club The ski club offers groomed ski trails at 4 locations on Manitoulin and 3 other trail systems for backcountry skiing/ snowshoeing. It has a Facebook page. Roy Jeffery from the club replied. Roy Jeffery from the club replied with these locational access points.

Regarding the Gate 3 entrance Escarpment Biosphere Conservancy Heaven’s Gate Property – “two thousand acres of pristine Lacloche mountains with 25 Km of (summer) marked trails.- Bay of Islands Drive, Whitefish Falls.”

The Red Deer Village entrance EBC trail has access to North Shore Conservation Area 1 km further along the same road – “Snowshoe to pristine Florence Lake and Frood Creek.”

Then, the Grab Lake Entrance to EBC’s Grab Lake Trail and Heaven’s Gate Trail - entrance just 300 M south along rail trail from the south end, Dump Road.

The Honora North Trail (2396 Hwy 540)- groomed by the Manitoulin Nordic ski Club, excellent easy snow shoeing along beside the Nordic track and “through the winter wonderland of Escarpment Biosphere Conservancy’s magical Freer Point Conservation Preserve.”

Moonbeam Nature Trails There are seven trail networks totalling 34 km of bordering René Brunelle Provincial Park. Turn at the alien spaceship on Hwy. 11, after taking a selfie, and look for the green gates for trail access.

West Nipissing Nordic Ski Club It has a Facebook page It is located with The West Nipissing Nordic Ski Club is located with the Rod & Gun Club), 404 Lac Clair Rd., Sturgeon Falls. There are 12 km of trails.

Temiskaming Nordic Ski Club (Cobalt) It is a very organized and long-standing cross-country ski club with a traditional chalet.

“We have three trails that meander through Jack pine forests. The two lower trails are fairly flat, while the upper one is hilly. The longer of the two lower trails is our Fitness trail, with seven stations at which you can do various fitness or yoga routines. At the end of your snowshoe, you can relax in our spacious heated chalet.”

North Bay Nordic Ski Club Member Tom Cook was on it. He said, “North Bay Nordic snowshoe trails are located at 630 North Shore Road. There is a trail called the Beaver Meadow trail that is about 1.5 km, and it connects to the Ridge trail that is about 3.5 km. Their names indicate the wonderful vistas to be seen from stream bed to the ridge, through a variety of forest cover and frozen swamp. These trails will provide not only a picturesque and unique perspective on the Nordic setting but a potentially invigorating tramp to challenge your stamina as well. Following a well-marked trail with a variety of options, you can design an experience to match your interests and abilities. The Nordic Ski Club has snowshoes of all sizes available to rent. The clubhouse offers snacks and warm drinks in a cozy, warm welcome back after an adventure on the trails.”

Wasi Cross Country Ski Club (Callander-Astorville) has about 7 km of snowshoe trails, and the self-serve clubhouse is open 24/7.

The Kap Nordic Skiers Club (Kapuskasing) has about 15 km of trails. Former Chair of the club Donald Leclerc provided the following.

“Kap Nordic Skiers, which has been a non-profit cross-country ski club for more than 45 years, began offering snowshoeing opportunities when a small group of volunteers approached the club about 12 years to create trails throughout their network. Members and the public can now enjoy 15km of well-maintained trails, which are accessible within 10 minutes from town. Kap Nordic Skiers not only has a cozy wood heated log chalet for people to gather but also three wood heated warm-up shelters along its trails.”

Hearst Cross Country Ski and Snowshoeing Club The Hearst Cross Country Ski and Snowshoeing Club is located on Road 583 North. It has about 15 km of trails and a good map.

Sault Ste. Marie Snowshoeing is one of the best ways to experience winter in the Soo, especially this year where there has been an accumulation of snow.

They are well-marked and scenic trails at Hiawatha Highlands, where there are two short trails totalling 7 km. The Crimson Ridge golf course has more than 20 km of scenic snowshoeing trails around the golf course.

In Wawa, there is a cross-country ski club but no snowshoe trails, but you have all those trails off of Highway 17 in nearby Lake Superior Provincial Park. The Chapleau Ski Club has a Facebook page and has downhill and cross-country trails but no snowshoe trails. For Elliot Lake, head out to Mississagi Provincial Park. The Helenbar Trail has a favourite lookout to behold.

Speaking of vistas, for Back Roads Bill, after a fresh snowfall, a short trek into the Devil’s Rock near North Cobalt makes this expansive view all worthwhile.

We show gratitude to Indigenous peoples for this recreational activity, which stemmed from a transportation need and for survival.

Then there’s that distinctive feeling when you have your moccasins on with wooden snowshoes on top of fresh powder; that’s a time-honoured natural experience.

Soon enough, you’ll be looking for your next canoe/kayak route in Northern Ontario. For now, enjoy your snowshoes and don’t wonder what the sun used to look like. The multitude of grey days is almost behind us, and the days are getting longer.

Compared to other winter pursuits, snowshoes make the outside world so accessible on the back roads.